The word ‘flawless’ is often used to describe something we love and find our own kind of perfection in but when it comes to diamonds its meaning is a little more nuanced. Technically speaking, a flawless diamond is the top grade on the Gemological Institute of America (GIA)’s clarity grading system, in which a diamond is graded Flawless with a capital F!1
Most polished diamonds over 30 points (approx. 0.3 carat) will come with a grading report issued by an independent institute. This will state whether the gem is natural or lab-grown along with its grading based on the 4Cs: cut, color, clarity and carat.
Given that most lab-grown diamonds occupy a narrow range of quality characteristics, the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) has introduced a more streamlined assessment method for grading them compared to natural diamonds. They will either be classified as ‘Standard’ or ‘Premium’, depending on their quality and craftsmanship, rather than being graded based on the 4Cs of natural diamonds as natural diamonds are.
A diamond graded Flawless (or FL for short) has no visible inclusions or blemishes when examined under 10x magnification. Put simply, it’s sheer perfection.
What inclusions and blemishes mean when it comes to diamond clarity
Inclusions are tiny imperfections that occur inside a diamond as it grows over billions of years, deep underground. In scientific terms, inclusions are small parts of uncrystallized carbon, microscopic cracks, or tiny mineral crystals that became trapped during the diamond formation process.
Inclusions are entirely natural, very common and don’t usually affect the beauty of a diamond unless they’re especially large or in an unflattering spot, like right under the ‘table’ (the large, flat surface on the top of a cut diamond), which is where the eye typically lands first.
Blemishes, on the other hand, happen after the diamond is formed, usually during the cutting and polishing process. They’re external and often so minimal they can only be seen under intense magnification.
What qualifies a diamond as flawless?
Since a flawless diamond earns its top-tier grading by having zero inclusions or visible blemishes, it’s basically as perfect as a diamond can get. But, as we mentioned earlier, recovering a flawless natural diamond is very rare – many gemologists will never see one in their lifetime.
Understanding Flawless (FL) and Internally Flawless (IF) clarity grades
When gemologists grade diamonds, they’re looking at how ‘clean’ the gem is, both inside and out. The clarity scale or grading system has six categories, based on what can be seen under 10x magnification: Flawless, Internally Flawless, Very Very Slightly Included, Very Slightly Included, Slightly Included and Included.
At the top of the scale are FL and IF:
- Flawless (FL): diamonds with no inclusions or blemishes
- Internally Flawless (IF): diamonds with no inclusions, only minor surface blemishes
Natural diamonds with these two clarity grades are rare and extremely desirable. They’re often snapped up by collectors or jewelry buyers wanting to own a piece of geological perfection.
That said, diamonds with visible inclusions or blemishes can be just as dazzling and special – arguably even more so thanks to their unique and distinguishable character.
FL vs IF diamonds: small details, big implications
Identifying a Flawless diamond (FL) from an Internally Flawless diamond (IF) is a tricky business. The only thing separating them is a surface blemish, such as a natural mark or a polishing line. While a tiny blemish doesn’t run deep or dim a diamond’s sparkle, it’s just enough to tip it into an IF grade rather than an FL. The margins are very small.
Comparing flawless natural and lab-grown diamonds
According to the GIA clarity scale, only natural diamonds can be graded as Flawless (FL). LGDs are either classified as standard or premium due to their narrow range of quality characteristics.
The GIA’s decision to grade natural and lab-grown diamonds differently, further highlights the significance of the geological anomalies within a natural diamond and the fact that its clarity is solely determined by the Earth’s extraordinary natural processes.
The recovery of a flawless natural diamond, therefore, is so rare; it is a once-in-a-lifetime moment that cannot be replicated elsewhere.
Premium LGDs, conversely, are created in controlled, stringent conditions, specifically manufactured to minimize imperfections. They’re consistent because of the machinery used to produce them.
How flawless natural diamonds are the benchmark
Fewer than 1% of all natural diamonds are graded FL (Flawless) or IF (Internally Flawless)2. It’s this rarity and astounding beauty that makes them a covetable ideal in the diamond world.
The De Beers Millennium Star, a 203.04-carat pear-shaped diamond that took three years to cut, is one of the largest FL natural diamonds ever graded3. Then there’s the Winston Legacy, a spectacular 101.73-carat natural diamond that sold for more than $26 million at auction. It turned heads not just for its size, but for outstanding color and clarity, too4.
Flawless by nature, unmatched in meaning
A flawless natural diamond is a real-life geological phenomenon, and in the world of fine jewelry and rare gemstones, it doesn’t get much better.
That said, it’s hard to ignore the distinct beauty that inclusions or blemishes bring to natural diamonds. They ooze character and charm and hold a unique story with every mark. While scarce and widely covetable, flawlessness should not be confused with perfection, which is something that is truly within the eyes of the beholder.
